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Building the T-Rex 600CF Kit
was great fun. With a well
understandable building
manual and larger parts
compared to the T-Rex 250,
it took me a couple of hours
to complete this kit. No
tools are supplied with this
kit, so you need the
following tools to get
started. • Scissors • Cutting Knife • Contact Adhesive (CA) • Diagonal Cutting Pliers • Needle Nose Pliers • Hexagon Screw Drivers (3mm/2.5mm/2mm/1.5mm) • Phillips Screw Driver All the parts in the T-Rex 600 CF Kit are sealed in bags that are numbered. Each building phase in the manual will show you which bag of parts to use to complete that specific building step. Make sure that you have plenty of building space to get started. Organize yourself by laying out the bags with parts in the sequence that you need to follow when building the T-Rex 600CF Kit. As I said before, the manual is well understandable with clear illustrations. So, rather than going through the building process step by step, I’m going to tell you what to look out for, and give you some tips on what I did when building my T-Rex 600CF Kit. |
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Make sure that you use the
contact adhesive, grease,
thread lock and anaerobics
retainer when needed. Be
careful when tightening
metal parts to plastic
parts. Over tightening will
result in stripped parts.
When assembling the bearings
into the main rotor holder,
make sure that the thrust
bearings are fitted the
correct way. The thrust
bearings have an (in) and
(out) side. The (in) side of
the thrust bearing fits
first into the main rotor
holder. Don’t forget to
grease the thrust bearings. When assembling the flybar assembly, assemble the linkage rod before assembling the flybar control set. Make sure that the linkage of the flybar control rod is measured to the correct length as stipulated in the manual. To prevent an unbalanced flybar assembly, you need to measure the distance between the metal flybar control arm and paddle and set them the correct distance apart as per manual. Make sure that the paddles are perfectly horizontal with the metal flybar control arm before tightening them securely on the flybar. All the metal balls of the swash plate need some tread lock. Make sure that all the linkages for the rotor head assembly are measured to the correct lengths before connecting them. The plastic ball links have a tighter press side, and a looser press side. The tighter press side is marked with an A, and the looser side with a number. I have found this very handy when clipping linkages onto the linkage balls. Assembling the main frame is strait forward. Before you tighten the main shaft bearing blocks to the main frame, insert the main shaft through all three bearing blocks. This will ensure that all three main shaft bearing blocks are aligned perfectly. Don’t forget to apply thread lock when fixing metal parts. |
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When installing the elevator control mechanism inside the mainframe, please make sure that the elevator lever is locked in position on the control shaft. The control shaft has a groove in it for the elevator lever set screw, and when the set screw is not tighten within the groove, the elevator lever can move sideways on the control shaft. This will result in the elevator lever to move in behind the main shaft, and get stuck during flight. |
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Building of the landing
skids, tail boom and tail
rotor assembly is
straightforward. Just make
sure that the tail rotor
belt is twisted 90 degrees
clockwise when viewed from
the back. I have used a
piece of string to pull the
tail rotor belt through the
tail boom to slip it over
the tail rotor shaft
assembly. You need to set
the tail belt tension by
pulling backwards on the
tail boom before you secure
the tail boom to the tail
boom mount. To install the main rotor head assembly, slide the lock collar into place below the swashplate on the main shaft. Make sure that the lock collar is fitted with the tapered end pointing to the bottom of the main shaft. With the main gear lined up, slide the main shaft into position until it reaches the bottom part of the main gear. Align the main shaft and main gear hole so that the socket collar screw can slide in from the side to lock the main gear to the main shaft in place. Lift the helicopter by hand on the main rotor blade holder, slide the lock collar against the to main shaft bearing block, and lock it in place with the two grub-screws on the lock collar. Don’t forget the thread lock on the grub-screws. Before installing the brushless motor, you need to secure the pinion gear with the grub-screw onto the main motor shaft. Use plenty of thread lock on the pinion grub-screw. I have installed my brushless motor with the wires pointing towards the nose of the helicopter for easy connection to the ESC. You need to set the pinion gear mesh with the main gear. To loose or to tight meshing will result in poor performance and unnecessary friction on the gears. |
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| Now that the helicopter assembly is finished, you can do the following. I have used 8mm foam to protect my ESC and two LiPo batteries from wear and tear and vibration. Use a cutting knife to cut the foam into the desired size, and use double-sided sticky tape and stick the foam into position onto the main frame. | ||||||
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| When ready to use the supplied stickers on the canopy, take the sticker sheet and cut the stickers out that you want to use. Take a clean cloth and wipe the canopy clean. Use water with a few drops op dishwashing liquid and wet the area that you want to stick the sticker on with the diluted dishwashing water. Remove the backside of the sticker and stick it to the canopy. You will notice that you can move the sticker around on the canopy to the exact point you long to. Take a dry clean clean cloth and rub the sticker until all the water and air bubbles are removed behind the sticker. | ||||||
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